It's like they got things reversed. What I miss about old web dev is the simplicity of the tooling: no complex build systems, "CI" was just uploading your changes via FTP (maybe using something like Dreamweaver's features for keeping track of which files you've edited), and basically zero server config.
What I love about the web now is the rich features of modern HTML, CSS, and JS. I no longer spend my days debugging weird browser quirks. What I hate most are the fragile build and server environments.