I'd encourage you to have a look at a well-known European physics research laboratory's (rhymes with Bern) library and engineering departments (not IT, unless they've started using version control and tests since I worked there). The salary is not as bad as academia, and there's plenty of interesting stuff going on. Most of it is accessible to anyone interested in a way I've not seen outside of academia.
Certainly cool stuff but out of the question due to location. I've worked for or met with people from similar size (at least in ambition) projects. It's a tough world to break into and especially difficult to bring a different outlook to.
I can understand not wanting to move very far, but the location is in many ways great: French alps within driving distance, Jura within walking distance, the lake, old architecture, lots of fields and forests. World-leading public transport. Geneva itself isn't very exciting, to be fair, but you're in the heart of Europe with easy access to all the rest.
As for "breaking in," I dunno. The hiring process seems very fair and international (very few locals work there in a technical capacity AFAICT), and there are plenty of people with flexible ideas. Not everyone, for sure, but then there are so many different groups there you couldn't possibly blanket everyone with that statement.
Hard to get into, have to move to one of five places, usually requires security clearances (huge ordeal), extremely clean lifestyle, if your PI is evil expect zero protection, post doc can be considered entry level qualifications, can be asked to work 7 days a week. Ultimately, usually still pays less than entry level software positions offering full time remote work...