I've been working on my own stats tracker in my spare time (it's gradually getting there, and aside from accidentally DOSing Pusher, it's going quite well), and I've taken a mixed approach to the site dashboard. It has the usual counters and maps around the outside, with a stream of activity in the centre which shows how users are progressing through your site.

This seemed intuitive to me, and it's kind of a combination of ideas I've taken from other stat tracking applications like gaug.es, Mixpanel, and Chartbeat. Each application seemed to be missing one or the other.